I find myself all to often needing a truck and having to beg everyone i kno for...

I find myself all to often needing a truck and having to beg everyone i kno for a truck or trailer and never get help so Im looking to trade my 2003 toyota 4runner with a 4.7l v8 4x4 with 115000 miles on it only thing wrong with it is radio dosnt work ..im shure that can be fixed for a 4x4 extended cab truck automatic transs and motor hopfully no bigger than 302 and $3000 cuz its what i owe on it...but still it is worth $8000 so someone should be interested im posting this anywhere i can to see if anyone would be interested if theres intrest ill post pictures

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Photos from Andy Austin's post — southern classic Ford trucks

1966 Ford F100 Long Bed

Asking $9000 OBO

66 Ford f100 long bed, 351W high performance, dual exhaust with shorty headers, C6 auto trans with a shift kit, and 2500 stall torque converter, positive 373 rear end, disc brakes all around, power brakes and steering. Truck has a tilt front end. I had it painted and was going to finish it but my health went bad. I have everything to finish it and a lot of extra parts. The truck runs and drive but not street legal yet. I'm asking $9,000 OBO might do some trading with your trade and money my way. Call or text Andy at 843-323-2108. Please no scammers.

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    Photos from Bobby Frizzell's post — southern classic Ford trucks

    1973 F100. The truck had a busted grill so we put a 78 grill in it. The truck has a wood Flatbed, and 17" wheels. Solid rust free truck with a 351W and automatic transmission. Has a new alternator. Has power steering and power brakes. Runs and drive just fine... This is the last time this truck will be listed for sale this cheap. Asking $2200.. if it don't sale we are putting a bed on the truck and painting it and the price will double. So if you want a cheap daily driver truck now's your chance.. location is Iva SC and the price is $2,200...

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      So I knew my carb was sucking air. I could hear it. I checked vacuum lines — southern classic Ford trucks

      So I knew my carb was sucking air.. I could hear it..I checked vacuum lines .. Everything was good.. Still sucking air intake was thinking.. Maybe one of the lines in dry rotted.. So I replace the vacuum lines.. Same thing.. It's mounted solid, not the gasket.. I was really starting to scratch my head on this one... Then I noticed.. After all this extra work...the previous owner had change the carb.. The carb doesn't match the spacer..it over hangs just a bit and is sucking air there.. Only took all day to figure that out !!

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        Photos from William Jones's post — southern classic Ford trucks

        1972 model 390. Complete rebuild on bottom end. New crank, 30 over pistons, rods. Still needs cam broke in. Comp cam 514 lift. New lifters push rods oil pump. Have the paper work from machine shop showing everything.heads shaved 20. Its currently in a 1974 f100 2wd long bed with a c6. Needs drive shafts put in and a few little things. Hate to sell it but im wanting to start school next week and need some more money for that. Askin just what i have in the motor. Trucks not perfect but you could resell or do whatever with it. $2000 for all of it.

        Pulaski va

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          So since i want front disc brakes on my 66 f350 with the 6 lug bolt pattern and... — southern classic Ford trucks

          So since i want front disc brakes on my 66 f350 with the 6 lug bolt pattern and I want to keep the bud wheels on there...I have to pull disc brakes from a 73 to 79 f350 also with 6 lug bolt pattern. Since some of the 73 and up f350's came with disc brakes I should be able to buy all the parts I need brand new right? I'm just not sure where i can get all these parts brand new.

          Any suggestions?

          I wouldn't mind spending the money on brand new parts.

          I know I've asked before but I'm just curious where i can get the parts brand new. LMC only goes up to the f250.

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            Photos from Corey Hochmuth's post — southern classic Ford trucks

            Got this 68 short bed, 302 auto. Took on a trade & intended on making a rat\hot rod type thing outta it but just don't have time or extra cash right now... Figured I'd see what y'all would give for it;-) would like to get $3300 or close but make some realistic offers. Sorry y'all... I'm in Greer SC... Right off I-85 exit #56 Don't even waste either of our times with $2k or less offers... It don't eat nothin, I'll keep it before giving it away. Know I could part it out for $3k+ just don't wanna take the time to. Starts n runs great! Yard n short drives good, needs shocks & trans either serviced or changed to a 4spd overdrive like I'd planned to put in it. Has 3SPD auto now but has a pan leak & needs filter n fluid changed if u keep the 3spd in it. Text 864-380-1814 with offers or to check it out.

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              Got a idea You can choose to be or not to be part of it A pay it forward... — southern classic Ford trucks

              Got a idea.. You can choose to be or not to be part of it... A pay it forward kinda thing...you have a truck piece or part laying around that you don't need .. Offer to give it to someone.. With the understanding that they pass the idea along to someone and they give something to another person down the line... Just truck people helping truck people.. What do y'all think ?

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                Photos from Melissa Keoho Drozdowski's post — southern classic Ford trucks

                Posting for my husband, who doesn't do the whole Facebook thing. Truck is in Alamance County, NC area.

                Classic 1972 Ford F-100 long bed, 360 C6 automatic for sale. Some restoration work already complete: new tires (some of the older pics below show tires that have since been replaced), timing chain, fuel pump, transmission filter, upgraded dual exhaust, digital radio styled to look like factory original, remanufactured distributor and carb.

                Transmission leaks from front main seal, easy to fix. Has working factory air, body and paint in good shape (minor rust spots), interior needs repair. Clean title in hand.

                Runs well, fires right up. With very little TLC, will be a solid work truck. Great project truck for someone with the time to devote to turning it into a showpiece. Was purchased (and worked on) as restoration project, but don't have the resources to finish it at the moment. Husband doesn't want to see it sitting around taunting him, so here we are. Always gets compliments out on the road.

                $4,800; cash only, no trades. Serious inquiries only, no low-ball offers, please.

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                  Hey guys I would love to find my first Ford truck I owned many years ago — southern classic Ford trucks

                  Hey guys I would love to find my first Ford truck I owned many years ago.. It was like a father/son project that we completed and would love to have it back.. Here are the details maybe it rings a bell with someone.. 1967 F100 long bed it was a 352 engine auto transmission.. It was light blue and had a spray in bed liner, blue interior as well. It also has Dixie horns on it at the time of sale.. It was sold to a man in Pickens SC in the late 90's... ( 98 or 99 ) I know it's a long shot but would love to track it down, any leads just let me know

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                    Guys the age is growing fast I love seeing all the photos of the truck — southern classic Ford trucks

                    Guys the age is growing fast, I love seeing all the photos of the truck. I would like to take a min to sat welcome to all the new folks and say please read the pinned post. also the admins on the page are myself and Robin Clayburne if you need anything please feel free to contact me or him. there are also some files in the files section that are there for you to look over. I will continue to upload some files as we go of things that may help, if nothing else they are located in one place to make them easy to find.. also take a look at the events section there are already a couple events listed and more to come... great way to get together and share our love of these trucks

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                      Bobby Frizzell created a doc in the group: southern classic Ford trucks. — southern classic Ford trucks

                      The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.

                      1972 F100 2WD available engines: A = 240 I-6 / B = 300 I-6 / G = 302 2V / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V.

                      302 and 390 engines were not installed in 4WD's.

                      Since all FE engines look identical, there is no way to tell by looking at them to tell one size from another.

                      Casting numbers on FE engine blocks are worthless for ID'ing the engine sizes, as the casting number is only related to the size the bare block was first cast as, which was 352 cid in most cases.

                      This why many FE engines have the 352 foundry mark cast into the blocks. Only after the blocks had seasoned...then were assembled, could they be other sizes.

                      360/390 engines share the same bore (4.05"), the stroke is different: 360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78"

                      352's (not installed after 1967) share the 360's stroke, the bore is 4.00"

                      With all that said.. the best way is to measure the stroke. the VIN will tell you what it came factory with, and we all know motors can be changed.

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                        Bobby Frizzell created a doc in the group: southern classic Ford trucks. — southern classic Ford trucks

                        Understanding Camshaft Specifications LIFT

                        Lift refers to maximum valve lift. This is how much the valve is "lifted" off its seat at the cam lobe’s highest point. How is it measured?

                        Valve Lift is the amount (usually in inches) that the valve is lifted off of its seat. It is usually measured with a dial indicator at the tip of the valve. Lobe Lift is the amount (usually in inches) that the cam lobe increases in radius above the cam base circle.

                        Tip: To quickly find maximum lobe lift, measure the base circle of the cam and subtract it from the thickness across the cam lobe’s highest point (see the diagram below).

                        Tip: Maximum valve lift can be calculated by multiplying the maximum lobe lift times the rocker ratio. For example, a 0.310" lobe lift cam yields 0.496" of valve lift when using a 1.6 ratio rocker arm.

                        Formula: valve lift = lobe lift x rocker ratio What does it do?

                        The intake and exhaust valves need to open to let air/fuel in and exhaust out of the cylinders. Generally, opening the valves quicker and further will increase engine output. Increasing valve lift, without increasing duration, can yield more power without much change to the nature of the power curve. However, an increase in valve lift almost always is accompanied by an increase in duration. This is because ramps are limited in their shape which is directly related to the type of lifters being used, such as flat or roller.

                        DURATION

                        Duration is the angle in crankshaft degrees that the valve stays off its seat during the lifting cycle of the cam lobe. How is it measured?

                        Advertised duration is the angle in crankshaft degrees that the cam follower is lifted more than a predetermined amount (the SAE standard is 0.006") off of its seat. Duration @.050" is a measurement of the movement the cam follower, in crankshaft degrees, from the point where it’s first lifted .050" off the base circle on the opening ramp side of the camshaft lobe, to the point where it ends up being .050" from the base circle on the closing ramp side of the camshaft lobe. This is the industry standard, and is a good value to use to compare cams from different manufacturers. Both are usually measured with a dial indicator and a degree wheel. What does it do?

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                          Well I guess I can t put it off any longer I am selling my 1969 F250 Camper... — southern classic Ford trucks

                          Well I guess I can't put it off any longer. I am selling my 1969 F250 Camper Special. It has a 4sp and a 360 2 bl that has approx. 20,000 miles on it. the body is straight as an arrow. Don't have a garage and can't stand to let it sit. We got it from the family that had it since 1978. I have owned the truck since 2002 and put about 15k miles on it. It has been off the road for about 1 1/2 years. We start it once in awhile and drive it around the property. I am asking 4,500 obo. I would love to see someone get this that would make it something even more special.

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                            Hey guys thought I d pick the brains of some people who may have had the same... — southern classic Ford trucks

                            Hey guys, thought I'd pick the brains of some people who may have had the same problem I've had- my 75 has a blinking headlight problem. Just the headlights, not the tail lights, gets worse if I use the brights. I replaced the floor switch, I've chased all my wires, fuses, and connections, they're all good. My dash cluster goes in and out too. Any ideas?

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                              Photos from Andy Austin's post — southern classic Ford trucks

                              I'm trying to sell my 66 f100 lwb. It been painted back in 09 and its been in my garage ever since. It runs and drives but the inside of cab needs to be finished and the front grill needs to be finished. The truck has a 351w, w/ gt40 heads, performance intake with a Holley carb, 1.6 roller rockers, C6 trans w/shift kit, and a 2500 stall torque converter. One piece drive shaft, 8.8 373 positive rear end, dual exhaust with flow master mufflers. The reason for selling it is I'm disable and my bills needs paid. Asking $8,000 OBO call or text me at 843-323-2108. If you can't pay with cash don't waste my time. My do some trading and with some money.

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                                Bobby Frizzell created a doc in the group: southern classic Ford trucks. — southern classic Ford trucks

                                Turn the two idle mixture adjustment screws clockwise with a screwdriver until they stop. Do not over-tighten the screws. Turn both screws back 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise to have an even start point for adjusting the Motorcraft 2 barrel carburetor.

                                Start the motor and let it warm up until you see the choke plate inside the carburetor open up. Remove the rubber vacuum hose from the vacuum port on the front of the carburetor and attach the vacuum gauge to the port.

                                Turn the idle mixture adjustment screws on the front of the carburetor 1/4th of a turn at a time, alternating back and forth until they reach the highest reading possible on the vacuum gauge while maintaining the optimum smoothness.

                                Locate the idle speed screw on the driver's side of the carburetor next to the choke lever. Have an assistant put the vehicle in "Drive" with their foot on the brake while you adjust the idle speed screw until it reaches between 600-700 RPMs on the vacuum gauge while running smoothly.

                                Put the vehicle in "Park" and readjust the idle mixture screws in the front to the highest vacuum reading with the optimum smoothness. Both screws should be adjusted within a 1/4th of a turn of each other.

                                Turn the motor off and remove the vacuum gauge from the front of the carburetor. Attach the rubber vacuum hose to the vacuum port on the Motorcraft 2 barrel carburetor.

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                                  Bobby Frizzell created a doc in the group: southern classic Ford trucks. — southern classic Ford trucks

                                  1. First three characters - F10 - Truck Series Code

                                  F10 - F100 2 Wheel Drive

                                  F11 - F100 4 Wheel Drive

                                  F14 - F150 4 Wheel Drive

                                  F15 - F150 2 Wheel Drive

                                  F25 - F250 2 Wheel Drive

                                  F26 - F250 4 Wheel Drive

                                  2. Fourth character - A - Engine Code

                                  A - 6 cyl - 240cid - 1BBL carb - 1973-74

                                  B - 6 cyl - 300 cid - 1BBL carb - 1973-80

                                  G - V8 - 302cid - 2BBL carb - 1973-80

                                  H - V8 - 351cid - 2BBL carb - 1973-80

                                  Y - V8 - 360cid - 2BBL carb - 1973-76

                                  H - V8 - 390cid - 2BBL carb - 1973-76

                                  M - V8 - 390cid - 4BBL carb - 1974-78

                                  S - V8 - 400cid - 2BBL carb - 1977-80

                                  J - V8 - 460cid - 4BBL carb - 1973-80

                                  3. Fifth character - U - Assembly Plant Code

                                  B - Oakville, Ontario, Canada

                                  C - Ontario, Canada

                                  E - Mahhaw, NJ

                                  H - Lorain, OH

                                  I - Highland Park, MI

                                  K - Kansas City, MO

                                  L - Michigan Truck

                                  N - Norfold, VA

                                  P - Twin Cities, MN

                                  R - San Jose, CA

                                  S - Allen Park, MI

                                  U - Louisville, KY

                                  V - Kentucky Truck

                                  4. Remaining six characters - 100001 - This is a numeric code for thevehicle build sequence. In some cases there could be two letters and four numbers.

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